Paris and the Metro


Tomorrow I'm leaving Paris on the train to Spain. I have grown quite found of this city. It reminds me strongly of a European San Francisco with it's obsession with food (or maybe my obsession), mass transit system, plentiful cars, crowded streets, and diverse neighborhood.

I've been out exploring the city like a madwomen. There are a ton of huge parks that one can get lost in. They all have fancy statues and some neat big old building. i went to an underground shopping center today and bought myself a girlie perfume called, of all names, Dolly Girl. It smells milder than it sounds. Think subtle grapefruit. Yum. On top of the underground shopping center is a huge park (Des Halles) and a mammoth stone church. I happen to be there during lunch time, when everyone poured out into the park to eat in the fresh air. Paris pretty much closes down from 12-4 for a big time lunch break. I ate lunch (falafel, if you can believe it) and listened to a man talk, well actually yell to his friends. He had this funny looking dog with dreadlocks that would bark at people and would laugh when they jumped. The dog wasn't ferocious, but it sure did surprise folks.

Last night we went to Chinatown and had the best Pho (Vietnamese soups). This was the best thing Išve had here so far. It kicked but on the Pho places Išve been in SF. (Look for this restaurant review on my website next month.) It was getting late, so after dinner we headed home for sleeping time. A factiod about my sleeping pattern... i have been going to bed at 1:00am and waking up at 9:30 am. Quite luxurious. It's easy to go to bed so late when the sun doesn't set until 10:30, then its still light until nearly 11:00.

I want to give props to the Metro in Paris. They have got it organized. Following is my little tale of life on the Metro.


THE METRO

When i got to Paris, my friend Brisa handed me a packet of 15 metro tickets. i could now self propel around Pairs underground. A quick study of the Metro map and a few trips on it were all it took to get oriented. Soon i realized that the Metro goes EVERYWHERE. It is not possible to be more than a few blocks away from a Metro stop while in Paris. In fact the city has set it up so that there is a stop every 5 minute walk. What this means is you can never get too lost. If you forget where you got on the Metro, don't worry, keep walking cause your sure to find another stop soon. Besides being readily available, you almost never have to wait for it. If it takes longer then 2 minutes for a train to come, you see people pacing and squirming. Imagine stops everywhere around the city, and never waiting more than 3 minutes. San Francisco definitely has something to learn here!!! Hot, scorching devil world hot, is what you should expect when entering a station. Once you go inside the trains, bump it up another 10 degrees. Sweat pours off of everyone, as you are squished into the train. Most seats are facing each other. So you have two seats side by side, facing another two seats side by side. I bumped many knees of the person across from me. It is a very intimate environment, but everyone is nearly silent, mostly reading or avoiding eye contact. Sometimes, people get on and make some music to liven things up (well they're really doing it to make money). Young gypsy boys rapping in a gypsy dialect with his bomb box and microphone, Crazy old French men singing and playing accordion, and then there was even a combo of both... French rap with accordion (that was a definite first for me). I adore the Metro. During my last few weeks in Paris, it has taken me faithfully to all my desired destinations.


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Last night returned from a 4 day trip in the country side (Poitier in the South of France). Lucky me, i got to stay at a friends BIG fancy old farm house. i picked raspberries fresh from the vine and made a delicious gallete (like a pie, but shaped different). Ironically in this land of white flour, we could only find whole wheat, so my dough was a bit "groovy", but still tasty. I read 2 books and lounged around a lot in the sun. Move from the grass to the hammock, back to the grass, then for a change of scenery, move to a chair. It was all quite strenuous. From the front porch, i could see a huge wheat field with a castle off in the far distance, nestled in a thick band of trees. The birds were chirping like crazy and a butterfly landed on my shoulder while i was picking fresh basil for the breakfast eggs. My country roots came right back. i didnšt realize that i was truly on vacation until i was in Poitier. It was like i could feel my whole self unwind and spill out all over the herb garden and lavender scented air. (My theory is that Paris is so similar to my regular life, in that it is a big ol' city, that it seemed too much my similar routine.) Every night we would cook a big feast, complete with a bottle of wine, and the cheese course. We would eat dinner at the table outside that looks over the wheat field, which by that time gave off the most wonderful slightly musky scent of hot dried grain. ( a little side note: i have drunken wine EVERY day since Išve been here. Whoa nelly.)

Sometimes for a change of activities, we would pack up our stuff and head to the local pool. In a town of 500, a quarter of the population was there. A nice outdoor pool with a grass to lay out on. Unbelievably, Speedošs are mandatory for men and boys!! Poor nervous teenage boys where trying to look cool, but were quite uncomfortable about the show-and-tell aspect of their swimwear. We spent hours just splashing and sunbathing.

Tomorrow is an overnight train to Madrid, Spain. I will be getting in at 8:30 in the morning. i am ready to start using some of my Spanish. my first opportunity will be to ask what they offer for breakfast. i hear it's hot in Madrid this time of year... i better get ready. If anyone has any suggestions of great oceanside towns to visit in Spain, that aren't huge, but rather sleepy and sweet, please email me with the names (and places to stay if you know any). i am ready for some beach time and quite streets with bicycle ridding.


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